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Ayutthaya, Sukhothai

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Global Expat Guide Topics. Expat Finance. Expat Types. Expat Insurance. Moving Abroad. Working Abroad. Living Abroad. Cross-Cultural Communication. Culture Shock. Expat Women. The site encompasses more than 29, acres and includes the ancient towns of Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet, along with Sukhothai itself.

Located in the lower north of present-day Thailand, Sukhothai was the capital of the Kingdom of Siam for some years, beginning in the 13th century when it gained its independence from the Khmer empire. While the kingdom was initially small, the third ruler of Sukothai, King Ramkhamhaeng — considered the founding father of the Thai nation — expanded its rule north into present-day Laos, west to the Andaman Sea, and south to the Malay Peninsula.

Sukhothai became an important center of worship, as well as politics and commerce.

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The area also became the cradle of Thai culture, scholarship, art, and architecture. The earliest examples of Thai writing were found in stone inscriptions on the site, laying out details of the political, economic, social, and religious life. The kingdom thrived with the help of an impressive system of hydraulic engineering. To keep floods at bay, the rulers of Sukhothai commissioned a network of dams, reservoirs, ponds, and canals that irrigated the land, while moats protected its residents.

The kingdom was conquered and absorbed by the Ayutthaya kingdom in After losing its place as the seat of power, Sukhothai was abandoned in the late 15th or early 16th century. But the religious monuments, constructed from brick and stone masonry covered with stucco in the signature Sukhothai style, survived. The monument covers 27 square miles, with the elaborate Wat Mahathat temple complex as its centerpiece.

The park includes several smaller temples, as well as the remains of the city wall and moat and its complex hydraulics system. Today, visitors meander through the boulevards of the Old City, discovering the chedis — religious monuments topped by conical towers — and Buddha statues set amid verdant grounds punctuated by lily ponds. Wanderers looking for a moment of solitude for meditation will find it in Sukhothai. You can get to Sukhothai from Bangkok or Chiang Mai by car or bus, or from Bangkok by plane though Sukhothai airport is located some 25 miles from the city. Because the site is spread out over a large area, many visitors opt to explore by bicycle or motorbike.

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Apart from the ruins themselves, those interested in history will find a collection of artifacts collected from excavations at the Sukhothai Historical Park and Sri Satchanalai Historical Park on display at the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum. Its namesake waterfalls are among those that often become lifeless in the dry season. I still remember that, in , the falls had to be closed to visitors from late March to the end of April simply because there was so little water. With plenty of rainfall this year, I expected that Chat Trakan waterfalls were likely to be at their best. So my friends and I made a trip to the park.

Not only were we not disappointed, but the park amazed us with some pleasant surprises.

We arrived at the park in the evening, just before the checkpoint was closed. We quickly pitched our tents at the camping ground and went to sleep early, partly because we were tired from spending the entire day on the road and partly because we wanted to wake up fresh the next day ready for the hike to all seven levels of the falls. From this west-facing lookout point, you can see the valley of Nakhon Chum, which is surrounded on all sides by mountains.

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In the narrow plain below, there are a number of farmland and villages, some of which offer homestays. On the mountains on the other side of the valley, there is another vantage point called Khao Pok Lon, which requires some trekking to reach. From both sites, if the weather permits, you can enjoy the sight of the sea of fog that forms over the valley early in the morning. We got there in the afternoon, way too late for the fog. Still, we were satisfied to see what the closed valley actually looks like.

In the morning, we were greeted by the songs of numerous birds, which livened the atmosphere previously dominated by the hum of the falls a hundred meters or so away. We were told we could explore the first four levels of the falls on our own, but if we wish to venture to the three higher levels we needed to be accompanied by a guide assigned by the park for safety reasons.

I came here a decade ago but did not go further than the first level of the falls because there was so little water and I left without knowing that the park also has to offer such hidden gems.

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Considering that we had only one day to spend, she suggested that we skip levels five to seven of the falls and instead trek to Tham Pha Keadan Lek. The fossil site is in another direction. We could go see it if we still have time after coming back from the rock inscription cave.

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While waiting for the guide to be summoned, I walked back to the food stall to have some grilled chicken and sticky rice packed for lunch. The vendor put everything in a set of pinto, traditional metal stack food containers. He admitted he had never been to Pha Kradan Lek before.